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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



Bug Boy posted:

Maybe you (or those geeky type guys/girls) could comment further on this, as I'm sure most people don't understand what this statement means. My first thought when reading this was that the car wouldn't necessarily run less efficiently (except for the small change in the volatility of the fuel) but that the largest financial difference is in spending more for gas with no return on performance/economy.

All in all, I love this thread as a way to divert the endless car debate in your thread to a place where it's not a massive derail. Looking forward to seeing some good topics brought up here for discussion.

Gas with a higher octane rating is less explosive and is intended for use in cars that use higher compression ratios. With a higher compression ratio lower octane gas has a tendency to explode prematurely, this is called predetonation and is bad. If predetonation or "pinging" is detected by the ECU using something called a knock sensor it will usually reduce power and turn on the check engine light. A car that is designed to run on 87 octane gas will at best have no change with the higher octane fuel, at worst have trouble detonating the higher octane fuel which causes you to waste more expensive fuel.

Your next question may be "what about those additives in the fancy gas?". They don't do anything. Same goes for those fuel additives you can buy in the store, they just lighten your wallet.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



CornHolio posted:

YES.

Tires are the single most important part of your car. They're all that connect your car to the road. Buy quality tires (perversions of lesbian lust has an excellent rating system), or this kind of thing can and will happen.

You might think its OK to cheap out on tires, but your mind will quickly change while you're hydroplaning at 60mph into oncoming traffic.

Brakes are also critical of course. If your disk brakes are squealing it means that they need to be replaced free amateur phone sex now.

People that sell suspensions would tell you that suspension is just slightly less critical than tires and brakes, but its really not that big of a deal. You'll have a much more pleasant commute with a good suspension, but it takes quite a bit to affect safety.

As an example of preventative maintenance: new thermostat, $15. New radiator plus installation: $300ish.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



Don Lapre posted:

mile maintenance is a scam. Look in your manual. It will show you what is required at what mileage. on the mazda 3 nothing more than air filters and oil changes are required till 60k miles.

Keep track of the time span listed in the manual as well.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



Vladimir Putin posted:

Does that mean that they never expected the car to last that long?

Well, my Accord's maintenance schedule stops at 120k. For my Accord they probably should have just printed something like this:
Every 6k mi - oil change, filter change, rotate tires. (Every 3k with severe conditions)
Every 30k mi - inspect such and such.
Every 60k mi - 30k service plus replace ATF
Every 90k (105k?) - replace timing belt/water pump

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



Don Lapre posted:

?!?

Automatic transmission fluid is almost always referred to as ATF, at least from what I've seen? Or is 60k a completely bogus interval? I'm going off memory, but really drain/filling the ATF too often can only help things (flushes are a different story).

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



Don Lapre posted:

every 60k miles, do 30k maintenance

wouldn't it be, do 60k maintenace

I was saying that a 60k maintenance is usually the 30k plus a few other things.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



traveling midget posted:

What the gently caress? Do you just dump in a quart and pray?

No, you take it to your authorized BMW service center so it can be filled with the proper superior German lubricants.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



Zhentar posted:

If you have RWD, then you can get most of the benefit with just 2 snow tires, which can make things a lot easier to swallow.

Tirerack's balanced and mounted on steelies combos might ease that financial burden a bit. Its always seemed a bit wild to me that tire rack is cheaper than including shipping than the tire stores around here.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



Backno posted:

This can depend on your area. I am in Indiana where we can have 5 ft of snow 1 week then high 50's that next. So good all seasons + the AWD on my Impreza is more then enough. If you are farther north or when winter hits in your area hits it stay the snow tires can be worth it. Some one will pop in with the name/number for them but there is a all season tire that gets repeated over and over and over in AI when this topic pops up(I have them and love the hell out of them).

Bridgestone Potenza Pole Position RE960 and General Altimax HP are what I recall being recommended (well, that is what is in my "wish list" on tire rack so I can remember). The former is more "sporting" and won't last as along, its in the category of "Ultra High Performance All Seasons" and the Altimax is a "Grand Touring All Season" which means, uh, something. The latter is only $63/ea on tirerack for my Accord (size 195/65/R15). Some places will charge that for Chinese tires that have a tendency to kill you.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



Dik Hz posted:

And someone who knows how to drive and snow and ice doesn't need them.

Unless you know, their car literally can't move.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



SlapActionJackson posted:

Are you sure the brakes and alignment need to be done? Both of those should be OK at 35K miles on ordinary cars, in ordinary use.

And the OEM tires were really free porn on tube8 bald at 35k? Did he not rotate his tires ever or something?

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



Hip Hoptimus Prime posted:

Guilty as charged. I'm making sure I'll always do that from now on. Being female + cars don't mix.

My brakes *seem* OK, but my alignment is pretty off (i.e. I veer off to the right if I let go of the steering while). I could do without having it done though. It's just annoying me.

If it takes a while for your car to veer off then everything should be ok. If you're fighting a bit then something is off. Having evenly worn tires helps out a ton. Your brakes should be ok until about 60k or so? If you don't hear the squeal from the disc brake indicators the pads should be fine, if you don't feel pulsating under the brake pedal the discs should be fine. Another thing to watch for is sponginess, this indicates air in the lines.

What kind of car is it? Have you had the oil changed? Usually they'll rotate the tires then.

EDIT: To be more specific about the alignment your car is aligned properly it will veer slightly right on a highway due to road crown.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



Harry posted:

This is bullshit. I was looking around for a car recently and the only ones even close to this price range were cars from the late 80's. These aren't super reliable cars and there's a decent chance you're a turn away from a $2000 repair bill.

In fact re-reading your post again, I can't believe you actually think it's a decent plan.

I just ran a search on autotrader for toyotas/hondas/mazdas under $2000, they all had salvage titles and have one foot in the grave ("minor transmission issues!").

I bet you could get a early/mid 90s W-body that might be ok for a while. Or a Taurus... Toyotas/Hondas don't seem to go much bellow $3k-4k in value.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



Neophyte posted:

So what do people think the "sweet spot" for a raven from teen titains who needs inexpensive transport is? $3000? $5000?

Roughly how much should someone expect to spend these days on a "beater" without getting a POS that's too unreliable to get them to work/Sam's Club/an interview for a better job?

Unfortunately its sort of on a car by car basis. You can look at autotrader, between $2500 and $5000 you pay a little bit more and you can get a lot more car. $2500-3000 gets you a 1990ish Japanese Sedan or '93-95ish coupe, $5000is gets you closer to a 2000 sedan or coupe. All vehicles of these ages can have serious problems due to neglect, whether they're a Toyota or a Chrysler. You need to be careful, there are some incredible bargains out there, but there are also some massive money pits. I've whined in threads before (this one too?) about how my 2000 Accord has absurdly priced OEM parts, all Japanese cars are going to have that to some extent (Honda is the worst though). A domestic will have cheaper parts, and every mechanic will have worked on a mid 90s panther or W-body but thats not be a good thing.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



CornHolio posted:

If this isn't something you're interested in, yeah you'll get your standard Corolla/Camry/Accord/Civic replies.

Can't speak for the Toyotas, but all Hondas seem to have at least some web presence. It'll commonly be on a separate section of the "JDM civic tuner" crowd, but its there.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



CornHolio posted:

and American cars like, uh, well I guess Cadillac is it, but really if you're not interested in the 'DRIVING EXPERIENCE (tm)' I wouldn't worry about any of those.

Lincoln. They're just really comfy Fords; but then again Caddys are really comfy Chevys. Also: EcoBoost.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



CornHolio posted:

Yeah there's Lincoln, but honestly I just see them as trim levels for Ford (same with Mercury). At least every Cadillac model (I think) is unique. It's not like the CTS is a fancy Malibu or something.

Same thing for Lexus and Acura.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



KarmaCandy posted:

People just always seem to have the same answers in regards to cars as when it comes to the Honda/Toyota, I was just curious if there were similar "typical" BFC answers that go a step above those.

Acura/Lexus. As argued above, they are literally a Honda/Toyota with nicer stuff, mechanically they're just as reliable. The top trim of an Accord or Camry/Avalon these days can be very luxurious. Personally I would look for either a CPO Acura TSX, which is literally rebadged European Accord (they like their family sedans smaller) or a BMW 3 series. Stay away from VAG (VW, Audi) or MB, nothing they build is anything near reliable and you need to see a dealer for pretty much all maintenance. Same goes for "advanced" BMWs (7 series esp.), a run of the mill 3 series shouldn't be too much of a problem, you have to maintain it a bit more than a Toyota/Honda though.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



gotly posted:

real world girl nude This month alone I've already pissed away $300 on repairs for the car. Including the 90,000 mile maintenance I've spent hot asian nude pictures $1,840 on this car for the five months I've owned it. That's $368 per month. I've done some research and found other people with the same problem my Civic has and they haven't been able to figure out a solution that will work. The problem keeps happening regardless of what they replace. It's time to sell it while I still can get some money for it.

This is one argument against used cars, you're just inheriting someone else's problem. I take it you bought it then immediately had the timing belt done?

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



Harminoff posted:

Yes I know that now. My last car took a poo poo, I missed two days of work, missing another day and I would have been out of a job, so I went to the dealership and got this.

It would have been cheaper to rent a car for a few days so you could approach this without a major sense of urgency. Just remember that when your N-body takes a poo poo in the near future.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



Harminoff posted:

n body is grand am, not grand prix isn't it? grand prix is w-body

Er yes, I read grand am for whatever reason.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



CornHolio posted:

If he pays the $9000+ in regular payments, it'd end up at around $30k. Still not too bad.

I don't know what his down payment was, though. I hadn't thought of that.

The real question of course is how bad is the CVT?

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



CornHolio posted:

Yeah, but 'equivalent to going around the world' and 'actually driving through loving Siberia before roads were even hardly invented' are kind of different.

If you can drive a Toyota Hilux to the north pole, Siberia shouldn't be an issue.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



CornHolio posted:

They didn't drive it back though. I'm pretty sure they 'coptered it back.

Clarkson and May flew back because they're pussies, the Icelanders drove the Hiluxes back to where they started.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



n8r posted:

Pretty sure it's the same as a loan credit wise. Leases in general are a pretty bad idea. You are basically paying the depreciation on a car when it depreciates the quickest - during the first few years. Leases generally only make sense when you want to drive new cars often, and you can afford to do so. Afford is a very general term though, I would say that you'd want the payment to be a very small percentage of your monthly income. If you want a really nice luxury car, just buy a 5-10 year old one. Many people can't tell the difference between a 2 year old and a 7 year old benz anyway.

Some accountant will probably chime in here and explain the tax benefits on leasing absolutely everything if you're a business.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



melon cat posted:

I have a question on anal incest sex stories "de-sludging" a car's engine. I'm sure we've all heard it before, over time gunk collects in your car's engine if you use "anything less than gold-level gasoline" and it needs to be removed. Truth, or bullshit? One of my friends who runs his own garage says it's a cash grab, and I'm inclined to believe him.

Gasoline has nothing to do with it. Oil does, make sure you change it within your manufacturer recommended interval. "Better" oils (especially synthetics) let you go longer between changes and may help clean out any sludge left over from "worse" oils/longer change intervals. I put better and worse in quotes because there is a certain amount of "oil is oil" in that any two oils with the same SAE rating and weight will function very similarly.

If you actually have real sludge issues you need an engine rebuild and theres not a drat thing you can do about it.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



melon cat posted:

I understand that, but is "engine de-sludging" ever a part of "routine" car maintenance, or some bullshit conjured up by car dealerships and swindling garages (I'm putting my money on the latter).

Proper engine sludge issues are never going to occur if the car is routinely maintained. Stuff will accumulate as the car ages - think 120k mi+. Not a bad idea to seafoam a car of that age once every couple of years.

In general, yes its a scam. So is the stuff like the "fuel saver" packages quick lube shops will try and sell you. Those additives don't do crap.

Nocheez posted:

Re-read your reply, I think you mean to say "87" instead of "93."

High octane gas is less explosive. If your car is designed to run on 89 then if you put say 87 in the gas may explode earlier than expected (detonation). If you put in 93 then you run the risk of the gas not exploding at all in which case it has the potential to gently caress up all your expensive emissions stuff (it probably won't). Higher octane fuels allow your car's engine to run at a higher compression ratio which has a direct correspondence to power. An engine designed to run on 87 will not gain anything from a higher octane fuel, however one designed for 91 would have to reduce its power output to run correctly on 87. Most ECUs are capable of this.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



Lyesh posted:

and you probably face restrictions in terms of what model you can get.

Probably restricted to a model better than the no AC DX you linked.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



an adult beverage posted:

The salesman (yeah, I know) told me it was transferable, I was stupid and didn't bother to actually confirm this.

The salesman is technically correct, you can transfer the warranty to family members. Next time ask if it will transfer to paris hilton film porn you. (I hate salespeople)

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



Grumpwagon posted:

Buy a Korean car, seriously. They're like what Honda/Toyota were back in the 90s. Their quality has improved WAY faster than their reputation, so they're cheap.

Careful, its only very recently that Hyundai has come up in quality. The 2000 Hyundai Accent I had in high school was constantly falling apart for example.

Hondas should be fine so long as you avoid the 5 speed automatics until 2005 and avoid the years affected by the engine block issue. If you want really recent, go with Ford. (er, )

Serious on the Ford thing. I've driven recent a Focus and Fusion with somewhat regularity and they're great cars.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



alreadybeen posted:

They also have the best warranties of any company. 60,000 / 5 Year oral sex and blowjobs bumper-to-bumper and 100,000 / 10 Year power train.

Ignore this post if you buy used.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



moana posted:

I would likely be buying a new Civic (manual), but I'll check out the Korean makes and see what is up. Thanks for the awesome advice!

See if you can find a mt fiesta/focus or Mazda 2/3 to test drive.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008



NOTinuyasha posted:

Also, why would you put premium brakes on a 2000 Bonneville? Could've saved $200 just buying bargain stuff, the car wouldn't outlast it either way.

Depends on how much squealing you want to hear. Also, I'm not sure you can even buy brake pads at an autoparts store that doesn't have "premium" printed on them.

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