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Mar 26, 2003

It must be the fumes.

Since this is BFC, and we are all about money here, let me present 2 important money saving car tips that seem to be lost on probably 75% of the driving public.

1. You are (probably) not a race car driver. You are (probably) not a millionaire who has expensive sports cars who can afford to keep them in cherry condition. So don't drive like it!!!

Accelerating quickly, driving at excessive speeds, breaking hard, going around corners fast are all fun, but they cost you lots of money. They can get you expensive tickets courtesy your local police, cause accidents, jack up insurance rates, and prematurely wear parts on your car causing you more repair bills then necessary. Brakes, suspensions, tires, early engine wear, all take a beating when you drive like Jeff Gordon, and they all cost money.

2. Check your god damned tire pressure on a regular basis (Once a week, or more often if you drive alot.) Low tire pressure causes three major problems (All of which cost you $$$).

A. Tire failure or loss of vehicular control which more often then not will cause an accident.

B. Premature tire wear causing tires to be replaced more frequently*

C. Loss of fuel economy. A few PSI low can cause a surprising drop in fuel economy that can add up quickly without you realizing it.

*Also make sure you tires get rotated frequently, this causes them to wear evenly extending the live of all 4 tires (or 5 IF you have a full size spare**)

**Don't forget to check your spare tire pressure every so often (every couple months is sufficient).

ZeroAX posted:

I was never sure if the mileage maintenance is worth it, or if its just waste of money.
If you want a safe, reliable vehicle that you can count on getting you to work in the morning everyday without issue, then it is most certainly worth every penny. (It also depends with what kind of reliability you need and how long you plan on keeping the vehicle.)

There are also costs people over look. For example, let's say your tie rod ends need to be replaced, which is a normal wear item on any automobile. (This for you non AI people is a joint that connects the steering system to the wheel.) What happens as they wear is that they get just a little bit of play in them. This causes your wheels to be a little bit out of alignment, which will wear your tires prematurely (expensive to replace), and also reduce your gas mileage (expensive commodity over time.)

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Mar 26, 2003

It must be the fumes.

I agree with the sentiment that the maintenance schedule in the owners manual is what you should mainly go by. Inspection by the trained people at regular intervals is also necessary to spot the things that are not part of the factory schedule that need attention. This is where you have to really find a mechanic you can trust (or do your own work.)

Speaking about coolants, certain cars will require this to be changed sooner then the factory schedule would suggest. A good example is my last car, a 93 Mazda MX6. In the engine somewhere there is a coolant path that is lined with a metal (I forget which one exactly) that is not aluminum. Because of the 2 dissimilar metals, electrolysis occurs, which breaks the coolant down prematurely, which causes it to turn acidic.

I don't have to tell you what acidic coolant can do to coolant system parts.

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Mar 26, 2003

It must be the fumes.

hobbesmaster posted:

No, you take it to your authorized BMW service center so it can be filled with the proper superior German lubricants.
by a Technician trained in the art of German Engineering and has a few million dollars in capital to afford all tools that the later model BMW's require to be serviced*.

*BMW builds the tools first, then the automobile/motorcycle second these days!

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Mar 26, 2003

It must be the fumes.

Also, if you think your alignment is off have it checked BEFORE buying new tires!

Bad alignment = quicker, uneven tire wear which costs you $$$

Tire pressure goes without saying Cornholio. Everyone here is checking it once a week... right everyone?

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Mar 26, 2003

It must be the fumes.

nbzl posted:

Sell the truck to a private sale if possible. You can work around the lien and pay it off with the money from the buyer, instead of using your savings.

If the private sale doesn't work, talk to a dealer about a trade in value and see below. (They too can work with getting the lien holder paid no problem.)

Buy fuel efficient car of your choice.

If you don't want/need the thing anymore why let it depreciate further? Get the most $ you can out of it now.

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