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Dogen
May 5, 2002

Bury my body down by the highwayside, so that my old evil spirit can get a Greyhound bus and ride


HalloKitty posted:

As crazy as the branding sounds, here it is on Jonny Guru: best video of sex

Well, the 800W version, but for a lesser known PSU, it doesn't seem like a PoS.

Unless you knew that and you just simply meant that you don't need an 850 Watt power supply. Hey, he doesn't mention what graphics card, which is the most power hungry part.

I looked up that same review before I posted my remark, hah. Yeah, that's what I meant.

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Dec 30, 2003

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Emanuel Yam posted:

I want to know whether the OP was being facetious with the 'Set the CPU multiplier to 42, save and exit' advice? Because i dont really want to crank it too much before i really know what im doing but it seems crazy not to go for a near 1 ghz increase for so little effort.. do i need to adjust anything else in the BIOS? is it not that simple?

Sandy Bridge is awesome is what's up there. Not facetious in the least. Not just 1GHz either, 1GHz and turbo by ALL cores instead of managing it within the stock TDP (up to 3.8GHz on one core, with others clocked lower). The actual speed increase in multi-threaded applications is dramatic. Easy and killer, really can't go wrong.

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Thom P. Tiers
May 29, 2008


I know ASRock boards get mixed reviews around here, but this is what I own.

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I am going to buy an Evo 212 cooler soon and going to begin overclocking. I have updated my ASRock Bios to the current version and have had no problems whatsoever with the motherboard since I bought it last May.

Am I safe in assuming that I can go into the ASRock bios, click on the "Turbo 4.0GHz" setting, go to save and exit, and I will be safely overclocked? Am I going to have to change any voltage settings at all?



This is the BIOS, and it is set to "Turbo 4.6GHz." They have one for levels of 4.0, 4.2, 4.4, 4.6, 4.8 I believe. Also, I have an i5 2500k.

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Dogen
May 5, 2002

Bury my body down by the highwayside, so that my old evil spirit can get a Greyhound bus and ride


I would be wary about what other things that might change. It would probably be better to figure out where your CPU multiplier is and change that, since it has an auto voltage setting and all.

edit: wait, that voltage looks high. Unless it's the VID (a mistake I have made before). Also LLC should be off or level 1 or whatever. Maybe those are the settings it loads for that profile since you have it selected? I'd definitely avoid the overclocking profile stuff on that board, if those are the settings it is using.

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Thom P. Tiers
May 29, 2008


Dogen posted:

I would be wary about what other things that might change. It would probably be better to figure out where your CPU multiplier is and change that, since it has an auto voltage setting and all.

edit: wait, that voltage looks high. Unless it's the VID (a mistake I have made before). Also LLC should be off or level 1 or whatever. Maybe those are the settings it loads for that profile since you have it selected? I'd definitely avoid the overclocking profile stuff on that board, if those are the settings it is using.

The picture I posted is just a general screen-cap of what my BIOS looks like, not my own personal BIOS screen. Thanks for your input, I do have an in windows program that allows me to change the cpu multiplier which the motherboard also came with. Anyone else with any familiarity of the motherboard and/or ASRock Bios and overclocking?

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Dogen
May 5, 2002

Bury my body down by the highwayside, so that my old evil spirit can get a Greyhound bus and ride


Thom P. Tiers posted:

The picture I posted is just a general screen-cap of what my BIOS looks like, not my own personal BIOS screen. Thanks for your input, I do have an in windows program that allows me to change the cpu multiplier which the motherboard also came with. Anyone else with any familiarity of the motherboard and/or ASRock Bios and overclocking?

Looks like if you leave optimized CPU OC setting at default, you can just change the CPU multiplier to 40 and you should be good to go. I assume it's not exposed in the screenshot since they have a specific profile loaded.

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STR
May 12, 2006

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I've been running my current build - i5 2500k @ 4.4 on a Gigabyte Z68 board, Hyper 212+ cooler - since last summer. But I'd never tried encoding or transcoding video on this build.

My old system was an Athlon 64 X2 5200+ with 4GB RAM (DDR2-800). This i5 @ 4.4 has 8GB DDR3-1600.

I'm using the same codecs and same encoding application. On the Athlon I MIGHT hit 20 fps on a good day. I hit over 370 fps on this. 2 hour video transcoded in 6 minutes 58 seconds, that would have been an easy 2 1/2 hours on the Athlon.

The CPU never got above 45% load, and CPU temps never broke 45C.

Mind completely loving blown, almost as much as when I tried to run this 3.3 GHz chip at 4.4. Still not a single hiccup.

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Factory Factory
Mar 19, 2010

Oh dear, oh my,
that shouldn't be said.


some texas redneck posted:

I've been running my current build - i5 2500k @ 4.4 on a Gigabyte Z68 board, Hyper 212+ cooler - since last summer. But I'd never tried encoding or transcoding video on this build.

My old system was an Athlon 64 X2 5200+ with 4GB RAM (DDR2-800). This i5 @ 4.4 has 8GB DDR3-1600.

I'm using the same codecs and same encoding application. On the Athlon I MIGHT hit 20 fps on a good day. I hit over 370 fps on this. 2 hour video transcoded in 6 minutes 58 seconds, that would have been an easy 2 1/2 hours on the Athlon.

The CPU never got above 45% load, and CPU temps never broke 45C.

Mind completely loving blown, almost as much as when I tried to run this 3.3 GHz chip at 4.4. Still not a single hiccup.

Try QuickSync next. If your software is appropriately configurable, it should give 95-99% the image quality (any deficit is a software problem, not something inherent to Quick Sync) at four times the speed without ANY CPU load.

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Quicksync encoding is fine if you're going to watch it on portable device where you're limited by HW decoding capabilities or you need it done fast but it can't compare to CPU encoders like x264 at in terms of quality.

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SRQ
Nov 9, 2009


Time for a blast to the past, and I don't mind if nobody knows a solution to this considering I barely use this computer, but I would like to get it to run at 100% if possible:

I threw a P3 Coppermine in a Pentium 2 based computer, I'm surprised it works (Bios detects it incorrectly, complains of "unsupported proccessor, but it works fine.), but it does. It's a P3 933 with a 133 FSB, but the motherboard is set for a 100 mhz FSB and as such is underclocking the processor to 700 mhz. One part of me sees that as probably a good thing due to the limited cooling inside, but I would love to see if I could wring the full 933 out of it.
If I could fine a 100 mhz FSB P3, it would run at the proper marked speed right?
E: It's a compaq OEM board, on the 440BX chipset.

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Animal
Apr 8, 2003


Factory Factory posted:

Try QuickSync next. If your software is appropriately configurable, it should give 95-99% the image quality (any deficit is a software problem, not something inherent to Quick Sync) at four times the speed without ANY CPU load.

If his CPU was only 45% load then he was probably using Quicksync

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Animal posted:

If his CPU was only 45% load then he was probably using Quicksync

I had a similar HOLY gently caress moment with my movement from the old 2800+ 1GB of RAM build (overclocked a bit, with a GIGANTIC copper heatsink, it fit an 80mm fan!!!) to a C2Q Q9550 with 8GB of DDR2 1066 mhz in 2008.

Immediately and painlessly overclocked to 3.4GHz/core on stock voltage (ahh, the time I had a Golden Chip... I mean, I still have it, it's at 3.8GHz with a bit of a voltage bump now and still turns in nice numbers, just not 2600k-at-4.7GHz nice).

Went from transcoding a video in several hours to roughly 7 minutes, it blew my mind.

But I agree, with such low CPU utilization, that would have to be extremely I/O bound (which it obviously isn't to have executed in under 7 minutes).

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craig588
Nov 19, 2005



SRQ posted:

Time for a blast to the past, and I don't mind if nobody knows a solution to this considering I barely use this computer, but I would like to get it to run at 100% if possible:

I threw a P3 Coppermine in a Pentium 2 based computer, I'm surprised it works (Bios detects it incorrectly, complains of "unsupported proccessor, but it works fine.), but it does. It's a P3 933 with a 133 FSB, but the motherboard is set for a 100 mhz FSB and as such is underclocking the processor to 700 mhz. One part of me sees that as probably a good thing due to the limited cooling inside, but I would love to see if I could wring the full 933 out of it.
If I could fine a 100 mhz FSB P3, it would run at the proper marked speed right?

It probably can't run a 133Mhz FSB because back then it was a big deal to reach 133Mhz. The CPU cooling probably isn't an issue if the chipset can handle the FSB, I remember running a coppermine with a tiny stock cooler at 1.75v and 1.1Ghz and it barely hit 50C. Let me know what motherboard is in it and I'll probably be able to tell you more about it.

It's really kind of a waste of time to mess with it much though because for under 200$ you can buy an off the shelf laptop that will outperform that PC. It's pretty impressive what you can get in budget computers now, they're not so slow that they're useless anymore.

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SRQ
Nov 9, 2009


Yes but spending a single dollar on this is a waste of money.
The computer itself is a Compaq Deskpro EN 6300, motherboard info from HP seems sketchy because it links to a later model.

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craig588
Nov 19, 2005



jimi hendrix sex tapes review says it has a 440bx chipset which only officially supported up to 100MHz and back then OEM motherboards never had overclocking options so I think you're going to be stuck.

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SRQ
Nov 9, 2009


If I were to find a 100 mhz FSB pentium 3 it would run at the marked speed right? Which then means that 133 mhz pentium 3s were actually slower... If I'm thinking about this right.

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craig588
Nov 19, 2005



They have a lower multiplier, but they're not actually running significantly slower and the higher FSB more than makes up for it. 10x100=1Ghz vs 7.5x133=1Ghz, the 133Mhz FSBed one will win every time.

A 100Mhz P3 should run at its rated speed, but considering how awful OEM motherboards were back then I couldn't be sure.

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SRQ
Nov 9, 2009


I'm already running an "unsupported" processor (For one thing it was made 2 years after the bios date, and for another it's got a higher FSB) so I'm sure any P3 other then the server variants will work. I would love to get a Coppermine-T 1.2 in there.
I also managed to shove 768 megs of SD ram into it, which frankly shocked the hell out of me.
Also doesn't that mean that you could easily bump that multiplier up to 10, with no fuss?
E: Heh, that review says it supports 128 meg sticks max, I've got 3 256s in it. I didn't even know SDRAM came in 256 until I found these.

The reason I use this rig instead of just using something new, is that it's the same machine I first got in high school, so it has a bit of a nostalgia thing going on, plus it runs almost silent and I put an AWE64 in there for some old school PC Gaming bliss.

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SRQ posted:

I'm already running an "unsupported" processor (For one thing it was made 2 years after the bios date, and for another it's got a higher FSB) so I'm sure any P3 other then the server variants will work. I would love to get a Coppermine-T 1.2 in there.
I also managed to shove 768 megs of SD ram into it, which frankly shocked the hell out of me.
Also doesn't that mean that you could easily bump that multiplier up to 10, with no fuss?
E: Heh, that review says it supports 128 meg sticks max, I've got 3 256s in it. I didn't even know SDRAM came in 256 until I found these.

The reason I use this rig instead of just using something new, is that it's the same machine I first got in high school, so it has a bit of a nostalgia thing going on, plus it runs almost silent and I put an AWE64 in there for some old school PC Gaming bliss.
You wouldn't be able to bump the multiplier up on an OEM board AFAIK, however a 100mhz FSB chip should work. I have an old compaq P2 SFF box, and I shoved in a 100mhz FSB P3 slotted CPU for awhile. The one I had also listed 128mb SDRAM support but took 768mb fine. I'm fairly sure that a 440BX chipset should accommodate any slotted P3's really, you'd just need to find an adequate 100mhz chip.

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Coppermine-T's won't work in 440bx boards without one of those old Powerleap adaptors- they run on lower voltages, among other things.

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May 5, 2003

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Hey y'all!

I built a new computer recently (specs you porn sex videos, but long story short, followed all the recommendations for overclockable funbox) and I finally decided to try to overclock.

I read the OP, opened up the bios, and saw this:




Am I even in the right place? What should I be changing?

Edit: Also, I have a i5-2500k, the packaging says 3.3ghz ... but this says 3.7. Hmmm. Maybe it overclocked itself

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Dogen
May 5, 2002

Bury my body down by the highwayside, so that my old evil spirit can get a Greyhound bus and ride


Uh... so... Intel board. Haven't seen one of those.

So the 37 is what a single core will turbo up to under normal circumstances.

So I guess you want to change the maximum non-turbo ratio to... whatever you want it to be. 40, 42, 44, whatever. I'm just guessing here. And I guess raise the 4 core ratio limit to be the same number.

And if you ended up with the 1600 ddr3, it looks like you're running at 1333. Not that it would be a huge speed difference, but see if you can set the memory timing by XMP. Failing that, manually put it on 1600.

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Dogen posted:

Uh... so... Intel board. Haven't seen one of those.

So the 37 is what a single core will turbo up to under normal circumstances.

So I guess you want to change the maximum non-turbo ratio to... whatever you want it to be. 40, 42, 44, whatever. I'm just guessing here.

Interesting. Are they horribly bad or something?

I figured it's from Intel, it can't be bad, it wasn't bottom of the barrel, and it had positive reviews. And it was a P67.

Edit: Oh, and that makes sense. It's set to turbo up to 3.7, but it runs non-turbo at 3.3. Got it.

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Dogen
May 5, 2002

Bury my body down by the highwayside, so that my old evil spirit can get a Greyhound bus and ride


Krakkles posted:

Interesting. Are they horribly bad or something?

I figured it's from Intel, it can't be bad, it wasn't bottom of the barrel, and it had positive reviews. And it was a P67.

Edit: Oh, and that makes sense. It's set to turbo up to 3.7, but it runs non-turbo at 3.3. Got it.

Well, I don't know about any other aspect of it, but it sure doesn't have the easiest to navigate interface there.

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I've heard that Intel boards aren't as good for overclocking as, say, ASUS or MSI, but nothing particularly concrete with regards to actual results.

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Son of a bitch, my machine went all prime95 unstable on me again (related to the last BIOS update, I never did go through and do it hot interracial sex stories right to figure out what stable settings would be for the new BIOS revision... Motherboards, if they aren't broke don't fix 'em folks, ugh). Time for more voltage.

Luckily my Corsair mesh side panel came in today and I've got three 200mm fans pushing air into the case now. It is positively frosty in there. Lowered my overclocked reference design videocard temps by ~7ºC, and now I've got substantially positive air pressure since 2x200mm in and 1x120mm/1x200mm out. Take that, dust.

Next video card will definitely be an internal multi-fan design - the machine, despite its many fans, would be very quiet except WHIIIRRRRRR from the reference blower. Definitely keeps the card cool, though, it's at 1.138V and running like a champ under OCCT, etc. high power draw stress tests.

Edit: I must have had some turbulence this is helping with, dropped my CPU temps by about 5ºC as well. They go -up- when I take the side of the case off. Airflow matters, I know some disagree and I understand their perspective but it's not my experience.

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Factory Factory
Mar 19, 2010

Oh dear, oh my,
that shouldn't be said.


Yeah, Intel sticks to reference VRM designs. Good quality parts, but still 4+1 phase.

What you're going to need to do is change the following settings:
  • TDC current limit override - ramp it up a good amount. As high as it can go wouldn't hurt, but 125A would work, too. You won't reach that limit, but at 97A you might.
  • Turn off Burst Mode under Turbo Boost.
  • Also under Turbo Boost, set the Sustained Mode Time as high as it will go, and change the power limit (it's in Watts) to at least 150W. Again, as high as it can go can't hurt; the equivalent setting gets flipped to 255W on Asus boards.
  • Finally, you'll overclock by changing the 4-core ratio limit to the multiplier you want. Make sure all the other limits are the same.
It looks like you don't have direct control over the voltage offset, so you're going to have to just watch the core voltage and temperature and take what you can get. If you can't get a stable overclock even though you have Vcore and temp headroom, you might try adjusting the Voltage Offset under the Turbo Boost settings. Remember that 100mV = 0.1V

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Factory Factory posted:

Yeah, Intel sticks to reference VRM designs. Good quality parts, but still 4+1 phase.

What you're going to need to do is change the following settings:
  • TDC current limit override - ramp it up a good amount. As high as it can go wouldn't hurt, but 125A would work, too. You won't reach that limit, but at 97A you might.
  • Turn off Burst Mode under Turbo Boost.
  • Also under Turbo Boost, set the Sustained Mode Time as high as it will go, and change the power limit (it's in Watts) to at least 150W. Again, as high as it can go can't hurt; the equivalent setting gets flipped to 255W on Asus boards.
  • Finally, you'll overclock by changing the 4-core ratio limit to the multiplier you want. Make sure all the other limits are the same.
It looks like you don't have direct control over the voltage offset, so you're going to have to just watch the core voltage and temperature and take what you can get. If you can't get a stable overclock even though you have Vcore and temp headroom, you might try adjusting the Voltage Offset under the Turbo Boost settings. Remember that 100mV = 0.1V
Thank you! Nice and easy advice. edit: gently caress it, trying now. We shall see!

Edit again: Made those changes, doesn't seem to have done anything - Windows still sees 3.3, and HWiNFO64 says it peaks at ~3.7. Edit again: Oh, lame. Can't increase the Max Non-Turbo Ratio above 33. So I guess I can't over clock?

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I hope this is the right thread for it, I think it is since it has to do with OC'ing. To those that have EVGA Precision, is it standard to uninstall the old version and then do a fresh install with the new version. Or can I just install the newest version of the program and have it override the old?

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My new settings:



Looks like that Voltage offset is there (highlighted). What should that be set to?

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Factory Factory
Mar 19, 2010

Oh dear, oh my,
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Krakkles posted:

My new settings:



Looks like that Voltage offset is there (highlighted). What should that be set to?

That's something you'll have to figure during stability testing.

Set the 3-, 2-, and 1-core multipliers to 42x as well. Then, if you're still having issues, turn the Burst mode back on and set its power limit to 150.

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Yinzer posted:

I hope this is the right thread for it, I think it is since it has to do with OC'ing. To those that have EVGA Precision, is it standard to uninstall the old version and then do a fresh install with the new version. Or can I just install the newest version of the program and have it override the old?

Install it over the old one, it's safe. I've never tried the other way, perhaps it's the same, but for sure installing it on top of the existing version it'll maintain custom fan/voltage/OC profiles.

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Mar 24, 2008

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Agreed posted:

Install it over the old one, it's safe. I've never tried the other way, perhaps it's the same, but for sure installing it on top of the existing version it'll maintain custom fan/voltage/OC profiles.

Ok great that's exactly what I wanted. Thank you!

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SRQ
Nov 9, 2009


So, got a question about going the other way- i.e downclocking.
I'm using some spare parts to make a cheapo spare TV, and want the computer driving the TV tuner to be as quiet as possible. I've put together some spare parts using a P4 3.2 HT. What I'm wondering is two things:
Does HT increase power usage in any measurable way?
How far can I downclock/undervolt this untill it becomes stupid (I.E the amount needed to undervolt more overweighs the amount of power usage, and thus heat, less.)?

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Aug 30, 2008



SRQ posted:

So, got a question about going the other way- i.e downclocking.
I'm using some spare parts to make a cheapo spare TV, and want the computer driving the TV tuner to be as quiet as possible. I've put together some spare parts using a P4 3.2 HT. What I'm wondering is two things:
Does HT increase power usage in any measurable way?
How far can I downclock/undervolt this untill it becomes stupid (I.E the amount needed to undervolt more overweighs the amount of power usage, and thus heat, less.)?

HT will increase power usage yeah, but a P4 3.2 is already going to be a space heater. The limit for undervolting would be stability I imagine; lower you get voltage, lower the TDP will be.

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SRQ posted:

So, got a question about going the other way- i.e downclocking.
I'm using some spare parts to make a cheapo spare TV, and want the computer driving the TV tuner to be as quiet as possible. I've put together some spare parts using a P4 3.2 HT. What I'm wondering is two things:
Does HT increase power usage in any measurable way?
How far can I downclock/undervolt this untill it becomes stupid (I.E the amount needed to undervolt more overweighs the amount of power usage, and thus heat, less.)?

Don't do this. I did the exact_same_thing and you'll end up with a dog-slow noisy oven of an HTPC that just pisses you off.

I ended up scrounging an old C2D/mobo off of SA-mart for $30 and it's twice as fast, almost silent, and puts out about 1/3 of the heat.

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Are these idle temperatures normal for an i5 2500k running at stock speeds with the stock cooler?



edit: Actually, I just realized that when I reset my CMOS that the CPU throttling option was turned back on, so I'm actually getting these temps when the processor is running at 1.6 GHz @ ~.95 volts

They seem a good deal higher than than they should be compared to what I've come across on google, but I'm wondering if that might be because I'm running a stock cooler. I want to overclock after reading all these good things about the i5 chips, but when I OC even close to 4 ghz and run Prime95 in blended mode with 4 threads, I'm getting temperatures of 75-80 degrees celsius within only a minute or two. I'm willing to buy a retail cooler if y'all think that will make a big difference, but I just figured that I'd check first to see if there might be something else going on.

For what it's worth, I did try replacing the stock thermal pad with some Arctic Silver 5 & it seemed to help slightly, but not as much as I would have expected. I've tried cleaning it off and reapplying a few times to see if I could improve on it, but it hasn't really made much of a difference.

Also, can anyone help walk me through some of these settings in my BIOS? I understand the basics (multiplier/voltage), but I'm having trouble figuring out what a lot of the other settings are or what they should be set to.



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Factory Factory
Mar 19, 2010

Oh dear, oh my,
that shouldn't be said.


Idle temps are fine. Overclocked temps being high on the stock cooler is expected. It's just a dumb, barely-engineered hunk of aluminum. Why, there's barely even any fancy physics in it!

Heatpipe coolers, they've got physics out the wazoo. Phase transitions, and ... well, that's a lot of physics.

Bottom line: better cooler, better temps. Stock can only reliably go up to ~4 GHz before being overwhelmed.

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Aug 19, 2011



Not sure if this is the right thread, but anybody have any hilarious/terrifying overclocking inicidents? I have an ATI video card(5550 series, kind of a rare version with the 1GB Vram), which I set to auto-overclock, saw it was going to take a while, and went to eat dinner.


Came back to find it at around 760 Mhz and rising(from a 500 clock). Oh and the temperature was 101C.

Turns out the fan had failed in the middle of the overclock. I ran it passively cooled at the minimal clock until I could get a new fan. And by that I mean I screwed a large case fan into the heatsink's fins. I would've done it right with proper parts but . It works great and rock solid today at 800 Mhz though.

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Dec 30, 2003

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I used archery serving to tie an old stock AMD processor fan over the (removed) fan mounting shroud on a Leadtech Winfast 6800 GT that I had overclocked to Ultra specs. Worked for years, didn't raise my temps. The shroud was a massive hunk of copper... Ah, the pre-heatpipe years. I tied it off with serving because...

1. the stock fan, busted or not, HAD to be plugged in or else it wouldn't POST, it was a weird connector so I had to keep that busted thing around. Electrical taped to the side of the card.

2. serving doesn't stretch and isn't susceptible to stretching or loosening by vibration and is slightly resistant to simple sharp-edge wear, by design.

3. I was able to position it carefully to tie it off, without impeding the fan's airflow.

It was definitely a MacGyver fix, but it kept it cool at Ultra specs and it only eventually died because, if I recall correctly, the RAMDAC went... Can't remember that well, though. But I did get years out of it, and it was way better than trying to deal with Leadtech Winfast support.

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