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HMS Boromir
Jul 16, 2011

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Can you tell us what you have now? You might be able to get away with just the new graphics card (and an SSD if you don't have one) for a while still, CPU performance has increased very little in the past 5 years.

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AVeryLargeRadish
Aug 19, 2011

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The video card in my desktop PC died, and I've decided to replace the whole system because it's getting old anyway. But it seems a little ridiculous to buy a video card right now when nvidia's 1000 series is just about to come out. So, I'm thinking I should build the new system, and just use onboard video until the new cards come out. Is there any reason I might not want to do that?

Also, looking for parts advice:
What country are you in?
US

What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing?
Gaming, web browsing, Office

What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so.
I'm looking to spend up to about $1500. I have a retail Windows 7 license that I plan to use for the W10 upgrade, so I won't need to buy Windows. I would like to buy a USB optical drive though.

If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution?
1080p. I'd really like to be able to put things on high settings with a good framerate.

Right now I'm thinking about getting something like this:

I've been looking a lot at the GTX 1080. Getting the best performance sounds really attractive, but I really don't know how noticeable the difference is likely to be compared to a 1070 or a 980TI.

Also, is there anything in particular I should look for in buying a USB optical drive? Or can I just grab anything that has decent reviews on Amazon?

Pretty much any decent USB optical will do, you can just look for something on Amazon with a bunch of positive reviews.

Considering your budget and the GPU you are planning to get I would change up the build a bit:

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Basically I added an OCing CPU, a good CPU cooler, a motherboard that can OC, fast RAM, a smaller but faster SSD and a much better case. The thing is that you want a fairly beefy machine to feed a card like the 1080/70 so OCing is what makes the most sense here. This still leaves some budget left over for an external SSD and something like a wireless card if you need that or a cheap 1TB HDD.

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Oct 16, 2008
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Finally saved up the funds to replace my 8 year old PC. I looking to build a mid-range PC that can handle modern games.

What country are you in? vanessa hudgens naked sexy Canada
What are you using the system for? ellen degeneres lesbian scene Gaming and general entertainment, web browsing, Office
What's your budget? tin a flix porn $0-$1000 CAD max if possible. Lower is better, could be talked into going slightly over.
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? jillian barberie reynolds naked 1080p. I'm not fussy about running everything at max settings.

I don't plan on overclocking.

From the OP and other posts I've pieced this together:

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Any obvious deficiencies/room for improvement? I picked the case pretty much at random. Would it be worthwhile to wait for the GTX 970 to go down in price? I'll have to replace my speakers soon too, and probably upgrade my mouse and keyboard, but those aren't urgent needs.

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Music Theory
Aug 7, 2013

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It's been about five years since I built my last computer and I want to go fast.

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Here's a preliminary list:

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The case was mostly chosen for aesthetics and because PCPartPicker didn't complain about it being incompatible with anything. The CPU in my old computer is an AMD Phenom II, so I'm assuming cannibalizing that isn't the best idea. I do happen to have a 1TB Seagate Barracuda hard drive, though.

Also, I'm assuming I can just use the Win10 license from my old computer, but I don't know that for sure so confirmation would be nice.

Edit: Should I wait for the 1070 and use my old graphics card until then?

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The case was mostly chosen for aesthetics and because PCPartPicker didn't complain about it being incompatible with anything. The CPU in my old computer is an AMD Phenom II, so I'm assuming cannibalizing that isn't the best idea. I do happen to have a 1TB Seagate Barracuda hard drive, though.

Also, I'm assuming I can just use the Win10 license from my old computer, but I don't know that for sure so confirmation would be nice.

Edit: Should I wait for the 1070 and use my old graphics card until then?

I'll let someone else critique part choice but:

-There's nothing you can upgrade a Phenom II to except maybe a better Phenom II, so a new system is the way to go. I think some Phenom systems can upgrade to Bulldozer but that's kind of a wash, don't bother.
- If your old computer's license is 7/8 retail, you can probably install it on your new computer and then upgrade to 10. If it's OEM then you will likely need a new license.
- The 1070 is going to cost a lot more than the 960 you picked so they aren't really in the same tier, but if you want to spend that much then it's not a bad idea to wait for the 1070 (or whatever Polaris brings if it comes out fast enough) instead of buying a 970 or 390 or whatever.

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Jun 26, 2013

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The thing is that you want a fairly beefy machine to feed a card like the 1080/70 so OCing is what makes the most sense here.

Can you explain what you mean by this? The power consumption of the 1000 series is phenomenally low, and I don't know of any game that will bottleneck noticeably on an i5-6500 or equivalent. I was under the impression that you could drop a 1070 into an Average Joe build for a pretty dramatic improvement

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Aug 19, 2011

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Allow me to preface this by saying that I really have no idea what the gently caress I'm doing.

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1) I got rid of the CPU cooler since the included one should be plenty for an i5-6500.
2) I changed the motherboard for a cheaper one since you can't overclock with your CPU choice.
3) Changed out the RAM for something cheaper and better.
4) I added a very good case with front panel USB and a fairly subdued aesthetic, it will also be easy to build in and pretty quiet.
5) I changed out the PSU, the Corsair CX PSUs have reliability issues, this one is much, much better.
6) I changed out the monitor for a better one.

PCPartPicker just does not know how long your GPU is so it was showing a warning for that, but any GTX 460 will be plenty short enough to fit in this case, I don't think they even make a video card that won't fit in this one.

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Can you explain what you mean by this? The power consumption of the 1000 series is phenomenally low, and I don't know of any game that will bottleneck noticeably on an i5-6500 or equivalent. I was under the impression that you could drop a 1070 into an Average Joe build for a pretty dramatic improvement

You could put a GTX 1070 in a system like that and you would see a large improvement, but you would see a larger one with the CPU clocked to 4.6GHz & overclocked RAM, the budget allowed that so I went for it. Take a look at audrina patridge sex tape where they pair an i5-6500 with a Titan X and RAM clocked at a number of different speeds, notice that there are substantial gains in some games based both on the CPU overclock vs stock and the overclocked RAM vs stock. While we can no longer overclock the i5-6500(Intel "fixed" that.) this video provides a good illustration of the differences in performance between an overclocked system and a stock system when paired with a very fast GPU.

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You could put a GTX 1070 in a system like that and you would see a large improvement, but you would see a larger one with the CPU clocked to 4.6GHz & overclocked RAM, the budget allowed that so I went for it. Take a look at free sex tube org where they pair an i5-6500 with a Titan X and RAM clocked at a number of different speeds, notice that there are substantial gains in some games based both on the CPU overclock vs stock and the overclocked RAM vs stock. While we can no longer overclock the i5-6500(Intel "fixed" that.) this video provides a good illustration of the differences in performance between an overclocked system and a stock system when paired with a very fast GPU.

Gotcha. I've seen the video (I think you or HMS Boromir linked it when I was considering my own upgrades), it's pretty fascinating.

I just misinterpreted what you said as a more general declaration, and I was curious if the CPU upgrade was more necessary than I thought. If don't strictly need one right now, I'm going to wait and see how much hyperthreading gets used in DX12 games before I choose.

Edit: (wait on the cpu, I mean. I can't buy that 1070 fast enough )

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I'll let someone else critique part choice but:

-There's nothing you can upgrade a Phenom II to except maybe a better Phenom II, so a new system is the way to go. I think some Phenom systems can upgrade to Bulldozer but that's kind of a wash, don't bother.
- If your old computer's license is 7/8 retail, you can probably install it on your new computer and then upgrade to 10. If it's OEM then you will likely need a new license.
- The 1070 is going to cost a lot more than the 960 you picked so they aren't really in the same tier, but if you want to spend that much then it's not a bad idea to wait for the 1070 (or whatever Polaris brings if it comes out fast enough) instead of buying a 970 or 390 or whatever.

Cool, thanks.

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1) I got rid of the CPU cooler since the included one should be plenty for an i5-6500.
2) I changed the motherboard for a cheaper one since you can't overclock with your CPU choice.
3) Changed out the RAM for something cheaper and better.
4) I added a very good case with front panel USB and a fairly subdued aesthetic, it will also be easy to build in and pretty quiet.
5) I changed out the PSU, the Corsair CX PSUs have reliability issues, this one is much, much better.
6) I changed out the monitor for a better one.

Thanks for all your suggestions! Especially the PSU one, I had no idea Corsair ones were crap.
I wasn't sure if most cases came with a cooling fan or not, so I added one just in case. I'm probably just going to find a semi-decent small monitor at Best Buy or whatever, because the current way my couch/table is setup only allows a small monitor without re-arranging the furniture. If I ever need a bigger screen, I'll just use my TV screen for the display.

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Thanks for all your suggestions! Especially the PSU one, I had no idea Corsair ones were crap.

Corsair PSUs in general are very good. The CX series in particular has issues but only by discerning standards, they're still a lot better than no-name $20 time bombs. A Corsair RMx would've been a solid choice if that EVGA one weren't so much cheaper.

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Rookoo
Jul 24, 2007
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Anyone have experience with mini-itx cases? I fancy going with the corsair 250D mentioned in the op, as apparently it supports a lot of full sized parts, and so the prospect of picking up my PC and moving it isn't a mammoth undertaking.

The Z170i i picked due to its mini itx form factor.

I'm planning on building now and using the integrated graphics until the gtx1070 is out soon. Does anyone know if the new cards any longer/bigger than the 970/80?

I'm going with a corsair RM650X, and 2x corsair dominator platinum 8GB sticks, and was thinking of getting a Noctua NH-U12S for cooling, as apparently the case supports up to 240mm radiators.

My question is: Should this all fit, and would the temps be bad for the graphics card in such a small case, or should I be okay?

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Anyone have experience with mini-itx cases? I fancy going with the corsair 250D mentioned in the op, as apparently it supports a lot of full sized parts, and so the prospect of picking up my PC and moving it isn't a mammoth undertaking.

The Z170i i picked due to its mini itx form factor.

I'm planning on building now and using the integrated graphics until the gtx1070 is out soon. Does anyone know if the new cards any longer/bigger than the 970/80?

I'm going with a corsair RM650X, and 2x corsair dominator platinum 8GB sticks, and was thinking of getting a Noctua NH-U12S for cooling, as apparently the case supports up to 240mm radiators.

My question is: Should this all fit, and would the temps be bad for the graphics card in such a small case, or should I be okay?

The new cards are the same size as the old ones, 10.5".

The free small breast porn is not an AIO watercooler, it's a tower HSF and it will not fit in the 250D.

Dominator Platinum is a waste of money, it's very expensive and all you are getting is a really fancy looking heatspreader. Also in the 250D there is a fair chance it will bump up against the AIOs fan/radiator, LPX is a much better choice.

Anyway, if you go with a blower style cooler like on the founders edition of the 1070 you will be fine on temps.

Here is a spec:

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Anyone have experience with mini-itx cases? I fancy going with the corsair 250D mentioned in the op, as apparently it supports a lot of full sized parts, and so the prospect of picking up my PC and moving it isn't a mammoth undertaking.

The Z170i i picked due to its mini itx form factor.

I'm planning on building now and using the integrated graphics until the gtx1070 is out soon. Does anyone know if the new cards any longer/bigger than the 970/80?

I'm going with a corsair RM650X, and 2x corsair dominator platinum 8GB sticks, and was thinking of getting a Noctua NH-U12S for cooling, as apparently the case supports up to 240mm radiators.

My question is: Should this all fit, and would the temps be bad for the graphics card in such a small case, or should I be okay?

I have a thermaltake core v1. It has an MSI card in it now. Just eyeballing the 1070/1080 looks like it is too long. MSI might release a shorter version but not in June. You will want one with good cooling for a mini itx case.

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I have a thermaltake core v1. It has an MSI card in it now. Just eyeballing the 1070/1080 looks like it is too long. MSI might release a shorter version but not in June. You will want one with good cooling for a mini itx case.

That is actually a trick of proportions, the MSI cards are longer but also much taller which makes them seem shorter. Look at the end with the video outputs for scale:

GTX 980 Ti reference:


MSI 980 Ti twin frozr V:

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Rookoo
Jul 24, 2007
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Thanks, before this I've always went with big cases, so this is new to me. I'll double check some stuff then go for it, hopefully blower versions of the 1070 aren't hard to come by when release rolls around.

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Cross posting from HTPC thread. I bought an ASRock AM1H-ITX.

So my motherboard came and it only came with an atx splitter for two devices. Does this mean it only pulls enough power from the dc adapter (and I need a power supply for more) for two drives or just that I need to buy my own splitter? It has six SATA 3 ports on the board.

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You need to buy your own splitter. The DC adapter powers absolutely nothing but the motherboard and CPU, and you have to use only the 24pin ATX, micha barton sex scene or the DC adapter for that sort of thing.

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Heya guys, a continuation question from the last thread (and about 2 months ago now) but I was wondering if anyone knew of a place that lets you choose parts and then have them assemble it that is actually any good?

I really don't want to build a PC myself as I am not very good with my hands and more than a little worried about loving up on builds, and I don't mind paying a bit extra for shipping, but can anyone recommend anything that would help?

quote:

It's overpriced, the ancient SSD is especially bad and should be replaced with a more recent and reliable model like the 850 EVO, here's a better, cheaper spec:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£149.99 @ Novatech)
Motherboard: MSI H97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£64.65 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Kingston Blu Red Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£49.52 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£67.98 @ Novatech)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£40.39 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R7 370 2GB Video Card (£113.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Thermaltake Core V31 ATX Mid Tower Case (£47.99 @ Ebuyer)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£44.37 @ Amazon UK)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer (£11.94 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) (£74.99 @ Ebuyer)
Total: £665.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-23 10:19 GMT+0000

This was the last build posted by AVeryLargeRadish that I was trying to get done, but having difficulty with.

So sorry for asking such a newbie question, thanks again for your time.

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Froist
Jun 6, 2004



A bit of a vague question I realise: Are blower cards still able to run in a fanless/silent mode under low loads (similar to the Asus Strix range), or does the design prevent the heatsink area required to run in a truly passive mode?

I'm looking to replace my severely ageing i7 920 & 560ti system with something more modern and probably a 1080, but I'd like the challenge/outcome of working within the NCase M1. I realise this restricts my choices a lot, so I'm in no rush to get the new gen on day one and find it won't fit, but I'd like some vague idea of what my choices may be. As far as I'm aware the biggest thing to look out for with this case is the extra height on the GPU, as AVeryLargeRadish just posted about the MSi cards..

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tadashi
Feb 20, 2006



I'd like to build a smaller profile/lower power consuming "desktop" computer for everyday office use (word, excel, email, etc). I was looking at Brix and NUC builds but I also need to be able to extend the users' desktops to 2 monitors (extended desktop, not mirrored). Brix and NUC generally use mini-display port and mini-HDMI out. I assume I can use them together for dual monitors? I don't think these computers use use display port 1.2 so daisy-chaining display port monitors doesn't seem possible.

I can't seem to find Brix or NUC cases on PCPartsPicker so I can't build something out to post. I like this deal from NewEgg which comes with 8GB of memory. I'd probably buy a 250GB internal SSD to go with it:
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What I like about Brix and NUC is the VESA mount option. I haven't used it before but it's really intriguing. Getting the computer up off the floor and limiting the cable profile is something that's important along with trying to limit power consumption.

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I'd like to build a smaller profile/lower power consuming "desktop" computer for everyday office use (word, excel, email, etc). I was looking at Brix and NUC builds but I also need to be able to extend the users' desktops to 2 monitors (extended desktop, not mirrored). Brix and NUC generally use mini-display port and mini-HDMI out. I assume I can use them together for dual monitors? I don't think these computers use use display port 1.2 so daisy-chaining display port monitors doesn't seem possible.

I can't seem to find Brix or NUC cases on PCPartsPicker so I can't build something out to post. I like this deal from NewEgg which comes with 8GB of memory. I'd probably buy a 250GB internal SSD to go with it:
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What I like about Brix and NUC is the VESA mount option. I haven't used it before but it's really intriguing. Getting the computer up off the floor and limiting the cable profile is something that's important along with trying to limit power consumption.

I have a Broadwell NUC doing dual 1080p monitor using both ports, it works great. It can also do 4K although the HDMI port is limited to 30Hz. From the spec sheet the Broadwell and Skylake models both have HDMI 1.4a and DisplayPort 1.2.

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You need to buy your own splitter. The DC adapter powers absolutely nothing but the motherboard and CPU, and you have to use only the 24pin ATX, nude girls in handcuffs or the DC adapter for that sort of thing.

I don't think I understand. The psu is an external laptop charger that plugs directly into the motherboard, which has a 24-pin ATX port. The board came with a two-way ATX to SATA splitter. I'm wondering if I can just buy a cord like anal sex with man that adds more SATA power plugs to the existing splitter, or if I need to go with a full (SFX) power supply. The current psu would be powering up to 5 drives (3x2.5" and 1 3.5" HDDs and one SSD) and maybe a low-profile GPU someday.

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tadashi
Feb 20, 2006



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I have a Broadwell NUC doing dual 1080p monitor using both ports, it works great. It can also do 4K although the HDMI port is limited to 30Hz. From the spec sheet the Broadwell and Skylake models both have HDMI 1.4a and DisplayPort 1.2.

Thanks, I must have overlooked that. Huge thanks, though. Hearing someone else is using it and that it works is the best endorsement. Have you had any issues with the bare bones components (obviously, hard drive and memory will be different)?

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Rape Stink
Feb 14, 2012


Building a new rig for under $1000 to replace my old rear end AMD rig, and this is what I've come up with so far
I'll be using it for 16:9 gaming as well as A/V production with Premiere, After Effects, Protools, Reaper -- mostly non professional work -- Dual monitor setup
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The ram that's in the list matches the set I already have, so the new system will have 16gigs of 1333. Also I'll be throwing in the HDDs that are already in my current rig for storage.

Anyway, the thing that's bothering me is that the listed ASRock mobo has some poo poo reviews on newegg that say it has wacky defects. The thing is, almost every mobo in my price range has a good amount of really hosed up reviews on newegg pointing out weird defects. Are mobos just really finicky these days, or does the 1150 socket have problems, or are newegg reviewers just pissbabies?

Also any general thoughts on the build? is something poo poo? is something overkill? that kind of poo poo.

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Building a new rig for under $1000 to replace my old rear end AMD rig, and this is what I've come up with so far
I'll be using it for 16:9 gaming as well as A/V production with Premiere, After Effects, Protools, Reaper -- mostly non professional work -- Dual monitor setup
Country: US

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carrie under wood naked CPU: nude christina aguilera pics ($318.99 @ SuperBiiz)
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sandy teen pink videos Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-10 13:30 EDT-0400


The ram that's in the list matches the set I already have, so the new system will have 16gigs of 1333. Also I'll be throwing in the HDDs that are already in my current rig for storage.

Anyway, the thing that's bothering me is that the listed ASRock mobo has some poo poo reviews on newegg that say it has wacky defects. The thing is, almost every mobo in my price range has a good amount of really hosed up reviews on newegg pointing out weird defects. Are mobos just really finicky these days, or does the 1150 socket have problems, or are newegg reviewers just pissbabies?

Also any general thoughts on the build? is something poo poo? is something overkill? that kind of poo poo.

How long can you wait on the graphics card? You could get a 1070, when it comes out, and still meet your budget. The 4790K has onboard graphics that will let you play indie games and older games, but not mainstream stuff. Also, you could use your old graphics card for a bit as well while waiting for the new one. A little patience would net you near top-tier GPU performance, instead of middle of the pack. Well, patience and 170$ more dollars.

Also, Most people would probably suggest a 6600K and Z170 board over the older 4790K board, unless you really need hyperthreading. You probably want 16GB of RAM, so saving $30 by bring your old (and slow) RAM over is kind of foolish.

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Thanks tons for the info - That's exactly what I was looking for. Going to go with this build, with a couple of edits.

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Aug 19, 2011

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Building a new rig for under $1000 to replace my old rear end AMD rig, and this is what I've come up with so far
I'll be using it for 16:9 gaming as well as A/V production with Premiere, After Effects, Protools, Reaper -- mostly non professional work -- Dual monitor setup
Country: US

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live sex video show CPU: the simpsons porn xxx ($318.99 @ SuperBiiz)
1 hour free porn CPU Cooler: nikki sims nude pics ($34.50 @ Newegg)
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michelle ryan nude pics Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-10 13:30 EDT-0400


The ram that's in the list matches the set I already have, so the new system will have 16gigs of 1333. Also I'll be throwing in the HDDs that are already in my current rig for storage.

Anyway, the thing that's bothering me is that the listed ASRock mobo has some poo poo reviews on newegg that say it has wacky defects. The thing is, almost every mobo in my price range has a good amount of really hosed up reviews on newegg pointing out weird defects. Are mobos just really finicky these days, or does the 1150 socket have problems, or are newegg reviewers just pissbabies?

Also any general thoughts on the build? is something poo poo? is something overkill? that kind of poo poo.

Here is an alternate build with a Skylake i5 and some different part picks:

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under 18 sex movie CPU: free retro sex vids ($244.99 @ Amazon)
nude for a cause CPU Cooler: miss march movie nude ($34.50 @ Newegg)
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the ultimate sex song Memory: 24 7 porn movies ($69.89 @ OutletPC)
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porn i love blogspot Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-10 14:09 EDT-0400

1) I think that for your purposes an i5-6600k should be enough.
2) A decent, basic mobo, should be plenty to get you OCed to 4.6GHz+.
3) 16GB of fast RAM.
4) A better choice of SSD, it's not the fastest but it should be reliable, if you can get an 850 EVO instead, it's like $20 more but it's the fastest and most reliable drive you can get.
5) A better case, it's pretty basic but it's very good for the price point.
6) A better PSU, this one is about the same quality but comes with a 5 year warranty instead of the 3 year one on the EVGA 500B.

I left the video card off since new cards are coming out very soon from both AMD and Nvidia, it is probably best to wait for now and play lower spec games until the market has settled and we know what the line up from each company looks like. Alternately there are a lot of people getting rid of cards like the 980 Ti right now and you could swing one of those used for $300-$350 if you keep an eye out, a number of the card manufacturers have transferable warranties, EVGA for instance, so you could get one that still has some warranty left and if there is a problem go to them instead of dealing with the seller.

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Rape Stink
Feb 14, 2012


Thanks for the tips homies, I'm going to change up a few things on my parts list based on your input.

My one concern is that I really want to go balls out on my processor in this build and the 4790k out benches the 6600k in terms of single core performance. Of course this would limit me to DDR3 which I though was fine because the general rule used to be that higher freqs generally meant higher latency, making memory speeds somewhat pointless. Has that changed now?

E: know what, gently caress it I'm going to go with the 6600. It seems like that's what everyone who knows way more than me is recommending. Either one is going to be a massive upgrade over my current system anyway. Thanks for the help guys

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Aug 19, 2011

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Thanks for the tips homies, I'm going to change up a few things on my parts list based on your input.

My one concern is that I really want to go balls out on my processor in this build and the 4790k out benches the 6600k in terms of single core performance. Of course this would limit me to DDR3 which I though was fine because the general rule used to be that higher freqs generally meant higher latency, making memory speeds somewhat pointless. Has that changed now?

That was never true, it's just that most things did not use enough bandwidth for faster RAM to make a difference, that is no longer true. Also the 6600k should be faster clock for clock than the 4790k while also being a much better OCing chip. You could go for a 6700k if you want hyperthreading and that will definitely be faster than the 4790k. It's much better to go with a Skylake chip with DDR4 if you can.

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Jul 16, 2011

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Passmark crowns the 4790K the king of single threaded performance, by 3-4% clock for clock over the 6700K. I'm not sure what's up there. Anandtech's benchmarks don't really seem to agree, the 6700K wins the single threaded synthetics comparison at 4.4 GHz and it seems to be a coin toss which one does better in any given game.

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Thanks, I must have overlooked that. Huge thanks, though. Hearing someone else is using it and that it works is the best endorsement. Have you had any issues with the bare bones components (obviously, hard drive and memory will be different)?

No, it's worked pretty much perfectly. I've been using it as a work desktop running Windows 10 for several months now - MS Office, text editing, lots of telnet/SSH sessions. I have the i3 model (NUC5i3RYH) with a 128GB Micron SATA M.2 SSD and 2x8GB of DDR3.

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I don't think I understand. The psu is an external laptop charger that plugs directly into the motherboard, which has a 24-pin ATX port. The board came with a two-way ATX to SATA splitter. I'm wondering if I can just buy a cord like alt sex stories search that adds more SATA power plugs to the existing splitter, or if I need to go with a full (SFX) power supply. The current psu would be powering up to 5 drives (3x2.5" and 1 3.5" HDDs and one SSD) and maybe a low-profile GPU someday.

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I don't think I understand. The psu is an external laptop charger that plugs directly into the motherboard, which has a 24-pin ATX port. The board came with a two-way ATX to SATA splitter. I'm wondering if I can just buy a cord like celebrity sex tapes tmz that adds more SATA power plugs to the existing splitter, or if I need to go with a full (SFX) power supply. The current psu would be powering up to 5 drives (3x2.5" and 1 3.5" HDDs and one SSD) and maybe a low-profile GPU someday.

oh so you got one of those funky things. I didn't realise they provide SATA power back out the ATX connector

Check the wattage of your power brick. Subtract your CPU and graphics TDP. Figure 5W for an SSD and 15-20W for a HDD spinning up. Unless you have an enormous power brick you probably end up with no more than 3-4 drives total before your system's peak power gets too high.

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Sep 12, 2006

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I'm looking to build something that might be a unicorn: small, can host a 1080 or future 1080 Ti, have lots of USB 3, and be lisa rinna nude picture quiet. At idle it should be silent from 18" away. For reference, my H110 plus EVGA GPU liquid cooler are not thusly silent (pump noise).

Small works against big fans, which works against quiet airflow. Pump noise seems to be above my audio threshold, but maybe with a custom loop? I'm not sure what the good small cases are for this sort of thing.

Budget is let's say $750-1000 for case/cooling/CPU/motherboard/RAM. I'm in the USA. I'll be doing a bunch of VM work in addition to gaming, so I'm not sure if I want 4 cores or 6.

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Heya guys, a continuation question from the last thread (and about 2 months ago now) but I was wondering if anyone knew of a place that lets you choose parts and then have them assemble it that is actually any good?

I think HP, Dell, and most other major PC companies have (expensive) build-a-pc options. Though if you're friends with your IT department at work you could always ask one of them for a hand. You wouldn't have a warranty but it'd be a hell of a lot cheaper.

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Many local computer stores will assemble for a varying-reasonable fee.

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I'm looking to build something that might be a unicorn: small, can host a 1080 or future 1080 Ti, have lots of USB 3, and be teen wet cotton panties quiet. At idle it should be silent from 18" away. For reference, my H110 plus EVGA GPU liquid cooler are not thusly silent (pump noise).

Small works against big fans, which works against quiet airflow. Pump noise seems to be above my audio threshold, but maybe with a custom loop? I'm not sure what the good small cases are for this sort of thing.

Budget is let's say $750-1000 for case/cooling/CPU/motherboard/RAM. I'm in the USA. I'll be doing a bunch of VM work in addition to gaming, so I'm not sure if I want 4 cores or 6.

Hmmm, a custom loop is probably not possible at that price point, especially if you want to include the video card. Here is the best I can think of:

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non membership free porn Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-10 19:52 EDT-0400

So a very quiet CPU cooler, a mobo with a lot of USB3, and a noise dampened case. It should be extremely quiet, the CPU cooler should be effectively silent as long as you don't overvolt the CPU and the PSU has a very high capacity and very high efficiency so it should only spin up its fan under load and even then it should still be quiet, you can also replace the case fans with Noctua ones to get it even more silent. As long as you can find a 1080 that turns off its fans at idle, and I expect most of them will, it should run nearly silently.

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HP Artsandcrafts
Oct 3, 2012



I'm trying to build a budget gaming PC with a budget around $600-$700. Before I go any further I have to say I haven't put a computer together since highschool (2002) and the last new computer game I bought was Freelancer (2003). So basically I have no idea what I'm doing anymore and looking at parts makes me want to curl up into the fetal position and cry.

With that said I found this parts list in a Lifehacker article from 2015.
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I'm guessing this parts list could use some updating so any suggestions are welcome.

I do know I want at least an Intel i5, 8 gigs of RAM, and wifi. I also need a full set of peripherals but I'll most likely find some cheap Logitech stuff for the mouse and keyboard. The monitor has been the biggest sticking point for me as it sends my budget soaring. I'll probably just hook the computer to my tv for the time being.

It's either this or I buy an Alienware Alpha. I just want to play some goddamn computer games again.

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