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forbidden dialectics
Jul 26, 2005



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Is there any decent supplier that's pretty good quality but cheaper than the EKWB stuff? I specced out some Threadripper cooling, and I'm at like 500€ ;_;

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--edit: I guess the Heatkiller stuff from a post above is OK? I've seen Der8auer using it, if that means something.
--edit: Seems like I still want the EKWB Threadripper block, considering the internals.
--edit: Gee, the Heatkiller stuff isn't exactly that much cheaper. :[

Watercool.de (Heatkiller) parts are definitely higher quality than EKWB, for around the same price. Just got everything in and I'm kind of shocked at how heavy and well machined everything is, especially this reservoir:

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Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

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Got my EKWB parts, they seem decent enough. Only thing that bugs me is that the core of the 38mm thick radiator is only 20mm. Seems the other 18mm is just headroom on the bracket for fan mounting screws.

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Don Lapre
Mar 28, 2001

If you're having problems you're either holding the phone wrong or you have tiny girl hands.


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Got my EKWB parts, they seem decent enough. Only thing that bugs me is that the core of the 38mm thick radiator is only 20mm. Seems the other 18mm is just headroom on the bracket for fan mounting screws.

Every radiator is like that

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Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009



My ekwb tank/pump combo came with the tank crossthreaded into the pump base. It was pretty easy to clean up the threads and fix it, but it was was a good thing to discover before I mounted it in the case.

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Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

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How bad is a vortex in the reservoir, anyway? I got the glass reservoir from EKWB and the liquid is spinning. The vortex doesn't reach to the intake, but it kinda looks cool. There's an antivortex PU foam piece, but I didn't use it because people keep saying it's crap that gets brittle and breaks apart.

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Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009



It can lead to air getting into the loop. And yes the foam is garbage because it will trap air instead of allowing it to bubble to the top of the reservoir.

Mine came with an anti vortex baffle which works pretty well, didn't yours? It's just a piece of perforated plastic you put in the middle of the reservoir.

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Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

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Nah, I took the glass version. The glass part isn't threaded, and held together by an acetal top that gets screwed into a metal pipe, to tighten everything.



With lower pump speeds, the vortex goes more or less away. Fine then I guess.

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Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009



One thing I never tried is to put the foam at the top of the water level, which should prevent the surface from spiralling, and air trapped there shouldn't matter.

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Desuwa
Jun 2, 2011

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So my first loop was a bit of a learning experience. Turns out you can fit an EATX motherboard, two slim 360mm rads, and EK's dual D5 serial pumps into a fractal r6. But there are a lot of things you can do that you probably shouldn't. I'm using EK's knockoff norprene and that stuff is really hard with compression fittings, barbs and zip ties would have been easier.

For vortexes my reservoir only came with the foam. I'm using it right now but I've read that the foam can break down over time so I've ordered one of those bitspower anti-cyclone fittings. Luckily I'll be needing to drain the loop anyway once the new graphics card and water block arrive, so I don't have to do anything unscheduled.

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Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

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Well, that didn't take long for one of the Vardars to go to poo poo and create an annoying chirp/high pitched whine. Lesson learned, time for the brown ones.

--edit: Apparently the PWM controller got in a tizzy. A reboot fixed it. (?!?)
--edit: Spoke too soon, there it is again.

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Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

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Thank God for flex tubing. I switched the fans on the radiator without draining poo poo (I didn't put a drain valve in because I don't trust these rotating fittings I've ordered for it. YOLO.)

Anyway, I got me some of these fancy A12x25 from Noctua, and they're loving ridiculous. Silent as hell. That, or those Vardars were loud as gently caress. Or both.

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Mar 15, 2013

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Having used the Vardars before and as an owner of two x25's now, I think it was definitely the Vardars being noisy.

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Jun 2, 2011

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I'm going to be running two different GPUs in my water loop, and I haven't been able to find an answer on how standard the inlet/outlet port positioning is on GPU blocks. If I get two different brands of blocks will they line up nicely, or could they be off by enough to prevent rigid, straight connectors from working? The tubing in working with is pretty stiff so I'd prefer they just line up straight.

I've already got a phanteks block for my non-ref 1080ti, since there weren't too many options. There's nothing wrong with it, but I'm not sure whether I can take my pick of whatever the best block is or whether I should avoid wasting my time and just order the new phanteks block.

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Mar 9, 2005

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I'm going to be running two different GPUs in my water loop, and I haven't been able to find an answer on how standard the inlet/outlet port positioning is on GPU blocks. If I get two different brands of blocks will they line up nicely, or could they be off by enough to prevent rigid, straight connectors from working? The tubing in working with is pretty stiff so I'd prefer they just line up straight.

I've already got a phanteks block for my non-ref 1080ti, since there weren't too many options. There's nothing wrong with it, but I'm not sure whether I can take my pick of whatever the best block is or whether I should avoid wasting my time and just order the new phanteks block.

"IT DEPENDS"...

Real answer, their technical support should be able to let you know what's up (or at least some measurements you could use to mock it up). If all else fails, you could always order it, try a dry fit and if it doesn't line up just return it and get another phanteks....

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Desuwa
Jun 2, 2011

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So despite phanteks customer support ensuring me that they'd line up, they didn't line up. Luckily I had enough random fittings sitting around that I was able to build something that connected them in series, which is enough even if I was planning on doing them in parallel. Definitely going to let this leak test for an extended period, though there's no real reason why it shouldn't be fine. Not really impressed with phanteks support on this. Was also surprised that this block, unlike the 1080ti version, isn't compatible with the stock backplate.



Good thing aesthetics was never a concern since I can't actually see inside it from where I sit, because I ended up using some needlenose pliers to get things tightened since I could barely maneuver my hands in there. Serial GPUs should be fine for me since I'll generally only be loading one of the two GPUs at a time, and I've got two D5 pumps in serial so flow rate shouldn't ever be a problem.

Also not a fan of EK; I can't install the anti-cyclone fitting inside the reservoir because there just isn't enough threading to do it. Leaving me with only their foam, which after only a month has already started to break down - when I just drained my loop I found a little piece of it in the bucket. I've got a replacement reservoir coming in on Monday, which ended up being the fastest solution even over trying to order an acrylic baffle. It's not worth going without my system for the rest of the weekend but I do want that foam out of my loop as fast as possible. I think I'll be avoiding EK in the future if they think this foam is something people should be running.

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Xerophyte
Mar 17, 2008

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I'm probably going full idiot and doing a custom watercooling loop for a new PC in a month or two. I've used AIOs before but custom has always felt overly complicated and not worth it. And it probably still is, but it looks cool and with modern cases and components supporting it well plus a crapton of youtube tutorials I figure I'll go for it regardless. Also, turns out that it's a lot cheaper, relatively speaking, to buy dumb nerd crap you don't really need as an engineer in California than it was as a CS student in Sweden.

I figure that the high end stuff like EK Waterblocks, Watercool, Bitspower and so on are probably all fine but it also seems like you pay a pretty big premium for them so I'm looking at the slightly-less-high end. Are there any brands to specifically avoid? I assume Thermaltake are still bad. Current planned purchase is a lot of XSPC stuff, mostly because I really liked what their Ion reservoir looks like in pictures and there's very close to no point in doing a custom water cooling loop where you don't like the aesthetics. A mostly opaque white and chrome loop with clear coolant looks good in my head, at least. Aiming for something like this as far as the loop is concerned:

but with a separate D5 pump somewhere because apparently the pump that's in that combo version of the reservoir is dogshit.

Stupid questions:
- How much tubing do you need? I'll be getting a midtower (Define R6 probably, O11 maybe) and I wont be doing anything super fancy.
- Is matte white soft tubing a thing? All soft tubing I could find was glossy for some hopefully dumb reason.
- How many extra random fittings will I want, and which types?
- Relatedly, do components with >2 fitting attachment points typically come with plugs for them?
- Any point in getting elbow joints for tight turns with soft tubing?
- No mixing metals, sure, but aluminium fins are fine on the radiator as long as the tube is copper, right?
- Is there a good site to buy this stuff in the US? EKWB is obviously nice, if you're willing buy exclusively EKWB stuff. I used performance-pcs for my preliminary list and they have a lot of different things at what looks like reasonable prices, combined with both the aesthetics and functionality of a geocities storefront ca 1998.

Current parts list. GPU block obviously very tentative, depending on what PCB I actually get in a month. Possibly I'll just get the CPU parts first:
code:
  Pump
Alphacool VPP655 PWM - G1/4 inner thread including Eisdecke D5 - Plexi V.3 $99.95

  Radiator
Aquacomputer Airplex Radical 2/420, Aluminum Fins                          $86.95

  Blocks
XSPC Raystorm Pro CPU Waterblock - Intel White                             $75.95
Phanteks RTX 2080Ti Founders Edition GPU Block - Chrome                    $149.95

  Stuff What Holds Water
XSPC Ion Reservoir (White)                                                 $40.95
XSPC FLX Premium Grade PVC Tubing - 3/8" ID (5/8"OD) - 2 Meter             $14.99

  Fittings
16x XSPC G1/4" to 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD Compression Fitting                     $71.90
4x  XSPC G1/4" 90° Rotary Fitting                                          $17.96
2x  XSPC G1/4" 45° Rotary Fitting                                          $11.98
2x  XSPC G1/4" Plug                                                        $3.98
1x  XSPC M20 to G1/4" Fillport                                             $6.95
4x  XSPC G1/4" 10mm Male to Female Fitting                                 $7.96
1x  XSPC G1/4" Male to Male Rotary Fitting                                 $3.99
1x  XSPC Ball Valve                                                        $11.95
 
Total: $605.39
So ... that kind of hurts, but I'm not sure there are that many corners I want to cut when I am trying to direct a high pressure water stream inside my big box of really expensive electronics. EKWB components would be a couple hundred bucks more from the look of things, so in that sense I'm saving tons.

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May 20, 2008

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Stupid questions:
- How much tubing do you need? I'll be getting a midtower (Define R6 probably, O11 maybe) and I wont be doing anything super fancy.
- Is matte white soft tubing a thing? All soft tubing I could find was glossy for some hopefully dumb reason.
- How many extra random fittings will I want, and which types?
- Relatedly, do components with >2 fitting attachment points typically come with plugs for them?
- Any point in getting elbow joints for tight turns with soft tubing?
- No mixing metals, sure, but aluminium fins are fine on the radiator as long as the tube is copper, right?
- Is there a good site to buy this stuff in the US? EKWB is obviously nice, if you're willing buy exclusively EKWB stuff. I used performance-pcs for my preliminary list and they have a lot of different things at what looks like reasonable prices, combined with both the aesthetics and functionality of a geocities storefront ca 1998.

So ... that kind of hurts, but I'm not sure there are that many corners I want to cut when I am trying to direct a high pressure water stream inside my big box of really expensive electronics. EKWB components would be a couple hundred bucks more from the look of things, so in that sense I'm saving tons.

-3m of tubing should do you just fine, if you cant find matte white hosing what you could do instead is get a clear tubing but get a pastal white coolent

-if your doing soft tubing then you will only need fittings to connect it all to each point cpu block, radiator etc so 2 fittings per item in the loop though you may want to think about a drain port of some sort as when it comes time to draining the loop you will be thanking yourself so much.

-if they have more then 2 ports then yes typically they will come with blanking plugs for the excess ports

-elbows and rotary joints can be good for even soft tubing to ensure your not putting kinks or tight bends in the loop so it will depend on how your going to route your tubing.

-yes thats fine as like you said the aluminum is not in contact with the loop parts

-as im in I cant comment on this last part sorry

and finally if your going to put a water block on a 2080ti, just get the reference model PCB its more then up to spec to over perform, as just like pascal, turing is voltage locked so all the extra bells and whistles that AIBs put on are useless once you put a custom wc block on top!

God I look at that part list and slowly weep when I think how much my cooling loop cost, I spent more then that entire loop in just fittings !

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forbidden dialectics
Jul 26, 2005



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-3m of tubing should do you just fine, if you cant find matte white hosing what you could do instead is get a clear tubing but get a pastal white coolent

-if your doing soft tubing then you will only need fittings to connect it all to each point cpu block, radiator etc so 2 fittings per item in the loop though you may want to think about a drain port of some sort as when it comes time to draining the loop you will be thanking yourself so much.

-if they have more then 2 ports then yes typically they will come with blanking plugs for the excess ports

-elbows and rotary joints can be good for even soft tubing to ensure your not putting kinks or tight bends in the loop so it will depend on how your going to route your tubing.

-yes thats fine as like you said the aluminum is not in contact with the loop parts

-as im in I cant comment on this last part sorry

and finally if your going to put a water block on a 2080ti, just get the reference model PCB its more then up to spec to over perform, as just like pascal, turing is voltage locked so all the extra bells and whistles that AIBs put on are useless once you put a custom wc block on top!

God I look at that part list and slowly weep when I think how much my cooling loop cost, I spent more then that entire loop in just fittings !

I feel your pain with fittings (this isn't even all of them):



So I'm about to embark on an all-straight, acyrilic tube adventure with a shitload of passthrough fittings in a PC-V3000. It's got a similar configuration to the SMA8 but the "basement" isn't a completely separate compartment.

Got any tips for measuring/drilling the holes for the passthroughs?

My plan is to just build the thing, one link at a time, and measure out the tubes (one end compressed in the fitting with the other end "bare") until the bare end is flush with the case, then mark the circle on top of some painters tape.

Once I've got the circle drawn (and re-measured/triple checked), I'll take it all apart (so metal shards don't get trapped in bad places) and use a 19mm hole saw with some drill oil to cut the basic circle. I've got a tungsten cutting attachment for my Dremel that I'll use to chamfer the edges and expand the hole to 20mm (for the Barrow fittings I've got).

Then I'll install the fittings, and trim the the bare end of the tube using this thing:

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Until everything is nice and snug. Do I have this figured out or am I missing something critical?

I haven't actually cut anything yet except some tubes to test this little thing (which kicks rear end for cutting acrylic tubing):

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rage-saq
Mar 21, 2001

Thats so ninja...

Water Cooling: This isn’t even my final fitting

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Mofabio
May 15, 2003
(y - mx)*(1/(inf))*(PV/RT)*(2.718)*(V/I)

drat though, what's wrong with cutting some home depot ABS or PVC pipe to size, and purple primering and gluing some fittings on? It'd be like $30.

Cut + well-sealed boro glass would be a badass sight.

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Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Posted this in the overclocking thread before I saw this one, might be more appropriate here.

I'm going to be upgrading my system from a 6700k to a 9700k, so new mobo/ram/psu the works. I've currently got a Noctua NH-U14S on my 6700k, but that will probably be getting sold on with the rest of the stuff. Was thinking of sticking with Noctua and going with a NH-D15, but at that price I'm getting into AIO water cooler territory.

I've got a Corsair Carbide 600 case, which has room for a front 280mm and bottom 360mm radiators. I haven't really looked too hard into water cooling before, so with a budget of say $200ish and the goal of max OCs without breaking my ear drums, which route would you all take?

Also, if I wanted to add cooling for a 1080ti, that would take a separate AIO correct? Do they make AIO units that can do both GPU/CPU or is that custom loop territory?

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Jun 18, 2007
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Posted this in the overclocking thread before I saw this one, might be more appropriate here.

I'm going to be upgrading my system from a 6700k to a 9700k, so new mobo/ram/psu the works. I've currently got a Noctua NH-U14S on my 6700k, but that will probably be getting sold on with the rest of the stuff. Was thinking of sticking with Noctua and going with a NH-D15, but at that price I'm getting into AIO water cooler territory.

I've got a Corsair Carbide 600 case, which has room for a front 280mm and bottom 360mm radiators. I haven't really looked too hard into water cooling before, so with a budget of say $200ish and the goal of max OCs without breaking my ear drums, which route would you all take?

Also, if I wanted to add cooling for a 1080ti, that would take a separate AIO correct? Do they make AIO units that can do both GPU/CPU or is that custom loop territory?
There are some AIOs that can support adding a GPU into the loop, but it never really gets any traction because AIOs in general aren't powerful enough. To small/thin of a radiator, too weak of a pump, and all aluminum construction mean its all an uphill battle to beat out a NH-D15 and good open GPU cooler. The point of AIOs isn't performance so much as its mounting flexibility and aesthetics.

Quiet while extracting "max OCs" and cooling a big GPU is firmly custom loop territory, because you could easily be approaching 500w heat output in that scenario.

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Xerophyte
Mar 17, 2008

This space intentionally left blank


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I've got a Corsair Carbide 600 case, which has room for a front 280mm and bottom 360mm radiators. I haven't really looked too hard into water cooling before, so with a budget of say $200ish and the goal of max OCs without breaking my ear drums, which route would you all take?

Also, if I wanted to add cooling for a 1080ti, that would take a separate AIO correct? Do they make AIO units that can do both GPU/CPU or is that custom loop territory?

Caveat: I haven't used any of this stuff in particular, but I have spent the last month trying to figure out the state of the market so I'm replying anyhow.

For $200 you can get a really nice 360mm AIO like a dad try son porn or a free pussy lick videos which will be easy to install, have a warranty, and outdo even very large air coolers, if not by that much. This is almost certainly the good and sane choice at your budget point.

As for AIOs that can be extended to do both CPU and GPU, zuzana drabinova nude pics You buy a pre-filled radiator+pump combo with quick disconnects, and then you can attach and detach similarly pre-filled waterblocks as you please without needing to do any tedious loop maintenance. It'll cost around $270 for radiator + CPU block and you'll be locked into the MLC series, but you can extend your now semi-custom loop with GPU block or an additional radiator later so you can get better performance or less noise. It's not going to be much different than a real AIO by default, but it has flexibility. There's also the occasional dual CPU & GPU AIO like real illegal child porn Combo AIOs never really took off.

The next step up is free japanese anal sex which is meant to be baby's first custom loop, and runs $300 for a 360mm radiator, pump, reservoir, cpu & gpu blocks, etc. Far as I understand it's pretty good quality for the price but you likewise become very locked in to that particular product line. The components are all aluminium everything, which is cheap but also means you should avoid mixing them with any copper parts or fittings to avoid corrosion. You're also in full custom loop territory and will need to assemble everything, fill your loop, bleed your loop, maintain your loop and live in constant fear of your loop exploding all over your PSU because you over-tightened a fitting.

If you're willing to completely blow your budget you can of course also make a proper custom loop, for at least 50% more money than the aluminium stuff.

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Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Thanks guys, looking like the Kraken X72 is in my future. Checking reviews it looks to be both quieter and cooler than the Noctua D15. Probably not enough to justify the extra $90, but then again jumping from a 6700k to 9700k isn't the smartest use of money anyway!

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forbidden dialectics
Jul 26, 2005



A heavy package from China arrived! I wonder what's inside?


Oh geez ok this is a bit better


First time with hard tubing and cutting holes in cases, turns out if you just use a ruler and some tape and carefully measure and mark things, it's not too bad!

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Feb 19, 2005



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