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G-Prime
Apr 30, 2003

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Greens with o-rings might be quiet enough while still being similar in weight to buckling springs. You could go to a tactile instead of a clicky (Clear, probably) to really cut the noise down. You could also look at more esoteric switches. A Kailh BOX Royal Purple is extremely tactile with a really pronounced bump, but it's fairly light compared to the tension on a Model M.

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I've been using a Model M in a cube environment for a few years now, but unfortunately I think I'm starting to get a few more sideways glances about the racket I generate with it than I'd prefer. With multiple monitors I'd really like to get something with a Windows key anyway, and I can't run anything to fake it like Autohotkey.

Prefer a full layout, and want a key feel as close to a Model M as possible... but quieter. Not concerned about silent, but probably something where I can't hear myself typing when someone two rows over is on the same conference call as I am.

I've got a cheap Aukey keyboard at home with some knockoff blue switches and I like the feel of it well enough, but I don't think that particular keyboard is going to be that much quieter here.

Any thoughts on that, or should I just start looking at all the mods people do to Ms to quiet them down?

I just said it a few posts ago but I'm going to say it again: Matias Quiet Click is very tactile, quite discreet (both in looks and in sound) and very good for office use. Quite stiff weighting too, at least compared to Cherry boards. It's not amazing like the Cold War Alps boards are, but it's still good. Miles better than any Cherry board, definitely.

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Pumprag
Jan 29, 2013



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I just said it a few posts ago but I'm going to say it again: Matias Quiet Click is very tactile, quite discreet (both in looks and in sound) and very good for office use. Quite stiff weighting too, at least compared to Cherry boards. It's not amazing like the Cold War Alps boards are, but it's still good. Miles better than any Cherry board, definitely.

I can also recommend Matias Switches if you like strong tactility. However, you should only buy a board if you're also getting a 1 year warranty, because Quiet Click switches had quality control issues in the past.

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EVGA Longoria
Dec 25, 2005

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Greens with o-rings might be quiet enough while still being similar in weight to buckling springs. You could go to a tactile instead of a clicky (Clear, probably) to really cut the noise down. You could also look at more esoteric switches. A Kailh BOX Royal Purple is extremely tactile with a really pronounced bump, but it's fairly light compared to the tension on a Model M.

Box Royals are my new favorite switches. I bought some for the HHKB layout Tina I built for myself, and they are what I wish Browns were. They are very light force, but a seriously noticeable bump right up front. Planning to order more for my other hot swap boards at some point.

They’re not quite as satisfying as a clicky switch, but it’s a real jerk move to use clicky switches in cubicles.

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I keep a switch tester at my desk (4 linears, 5 tactiles, 3 clickys) and encourage people to try it and find things that they like. Every time somebody gravitates toward a clicky, I remind them that they feel virtually identical to a tactile of the same type, but they're abusive to their neighbors. Then I pick up the tester, and rapidly tap on the BOX Pale Blue, which has the most high-pitched, pingy click I've ever heard, and that makes them go back to tactile EVERY time.

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mewse
May 2, 2006



Anyone try hako clear royals?

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Anyone try hako clear royals?

Not the same, but I've got hako true royals in my keyboard. Perfect for my heavy typing, and Noticeable Tactility.

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AgentCow007
May 20, 2004
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rapidly tap on the BOX Pale Blue, which has the most high-pitched, pingy click I've ever heard

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iospace
Apr 20, 2020




Fun Shoe

So, I had no luck finding the cap puller...

and the key started working again.

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teethgrinder
Oct 9, 2002



Soiled Meat

Finally got around to soldering together a Planck kit. I'm way happier with this one with Cherry Clears and I like the XDA Canvas caps. Previously I had bought someone's already-built one with some kind of hair-trigger speed switches and an ugly red case. Just brushing a cap was enough to activate it and it was quite frustrating -- I have a bad index finger courtesy of colliding with a truck door while cycling last year.

  • Befuddled by the Cherry stabilizer initially. Realised it needed to be mounted to the PCB not plate. I know the OLKB guy recommends against a stabilizer, but I didn't like the feeling on my earlier Planck.
  • Soldered all the switches
  • Foolishly put caps on as I tested, forgetting I needed screwdriver access under 5 2x2 clusters of keys.
  • Found that oddly all of "column 9" did not work. (o/l/./down).
  • Googled "planck switches don't work column" and was surprised to find a reddit post having the same problem specifically with column 9. One comment mentioned solder touching the OLKB logo could cause a short -- that was exactly my problem.
  • Put it back together, but discovered now that 'n' was sunken. The switch somehow got mangled when removing the caps earlier.
  • Had one spare switch fortunately ... wasn't a huge deal to replace, but annoying having to take it apart yet again.
  • All good now.

I don't think these will be my final caps (I have some blank sets coming from Massdrop eventually), but I really need the guides for reference for now.

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I remind them that they feel virtually identical to a tactile of the same type, but they're abusive to their neighbors.

You say that as if it’s a bug rather than a feature

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Jan 11, 2005

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Yeah, the K-Type, Massdrop CTRL and ALT all have the same issue of using thin and hollow as gently caress aluminium cases. Not really a fan of the build quality on them. What you can do is open it up entirely and try to shove some sort of packing material / foam / dynamat etc to where you can fit it in. That should reduce the pinging a bit.

Put some foam under the pbc and some rubber inbetween the pcb and upper plate, but that didn't help.

Turns out the source of the problem are the springs in the Halo Clears, which resonate loudly with the upper case.
I exchanged the switches with some Kailh Pro Purples and the ping is pretty much gone.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





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You say that as if it’s a bug rather than a feature

It can be both?

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If you like annoying your coworkers and making sure they have to wear headphones, inhibiting them from speaking, it's absolutely a feature. Some people are into that. Personally, I like being in an office where I can turn around and talk to my team without having to ping them on Slack to make them take off the headphones first.

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AgentCow007
May 20, 2004
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Finally got around to soldering together a Planck kit.

Congrats on building a build It looks great

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Oct 12, 2012

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The Vortex Race 3 I ordered came in today. I got the Cherry Clear switches since I was used to Browns and kind of bang away on my keyboard with my hamfists. I am getting used to not having a tenkey but being able to program keystroke combinations is super cool. I didn't order a keycap puller when I bought the keyboard so I need to pick something up off of Amazon or something if I want to use the colorful keycaps that came with the package.

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HappyCapybaraFamily
Sep 16, 2009



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The Race 3 doesn't come with a keycap puller? That's kinda lame.

I bought sex movies of old when I sold my K-Type. It's exactly like the one that came with the K-Type, as far as I can tell, except anodized red. I have no idea what its "calibration" or "adjustment" functions could be, but just use it as a keycap puller and you'll be fine.

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teethgrinder
Oct 9, 2002



Soiled Meat

Hmm I don't know either, but if you unscrew the handle there's a large Philips-like screwdriver inside.

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That phillips head doohickey is for gently adjusting the fit of a stem to a keycap

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I'm having a hard time imagining what that means. Is it for fixing warped keycaps?

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teethgrinder
Oct 9, 2002



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Congrats on building a build It looks great
Thank you! It was a surprisingly fun project. Don't really see a need to do it again ever but who knows.

Unfortunately I just got fired and now basically own six keyboards for one computer >_<

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HappyCapybaraFamily
Sep 16, 2009



Fun Shoe

Dang, condolences Maybe you can sell a few until you get back on your feet?

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teethgrinder
Oct 9, 2002



Soiled Meat

MY CHILDREN!!!!

I'll be okay for a few weeks at least. But yeah, sadly I could probably get ~$500 in spares.

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signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008


What's the best keycap remover that isn't the spready wire one?

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What's the best keycap remover that isn't the spready wire one?

The single ring one is good for single caps as long as you're careful about pushing it down on the sides of the caps and not marring them. They ship them with most keyboards:
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As you can see the ones in that image have flashing right in the middle them so you'd want to file or sand or cut that off before using them or you might damage the keycaps, but otherwise they're pretty quick to pull off the single keys. They can work on long keys turned sideways but it can depend on the height of the keycap if both sides grab. I prefer wire pullers in general since you twist them 45' and get a wire on each side of the cap to get a little bit more even force.

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Feb 4, 2005

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Yeah the wire spreader one is probably the best design and least likely to gently caress up the caps.

I had a plastic one with the ring on it but it cracked and became useless very quickly.

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signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008


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Yeah the wire spreader one is probably the best design and least likely to gently caress up the caps.

I had a plastic one with the ring on it but it cracked and became useless very quickly.

See my problem has been that I have managed to severely gently caress a switch's casing by not centering it properly and having the wire not spread widely enough.

Blehhhh

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mewse
May 2, 2006



Does anyone have a full size redragon vara RGB? I'd like to know if the LEDs are on top of the keyswitches, under the keycaps, or if they are surface mount on the PCB making desoldering the switches much easier.

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teethgrinder
Oct 9, 2002



Soiled Meat

Now that I'm a jobless bum and have all my keyboards in the same place, the Vortex Race 3 is definitely my favourite. Love the footprint & functionality.

It's unfortunate it has the oddly-sized Esc and Delete keys, but the caps it comes with are just fine.

edit: also Cherry MX Clears just get me.

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remember
Nov 23, 2006


So I've been kind of looking to get a tenkeyless keyboard because the lack of arrow keys on my 60% have been really irritating for certain tasks. I've been looking at the ducky one 2, code wasd or the durogod keyboard, but I really like that CTRL massdrop keyboard, although mostly for the looks of it. Is there any reason the CTRL keyboard is a bad idea, outside of me paying $70 or so for basically looks and some features that I will probably never use like the hot swapable switches.

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I'm a big fan of the CTRL. Though not as much the other version they have up right now with the high profile. It's a very nice keyboard overall. Very sturdy, the programmability is helpful, it has passthrough on the second USB-C port, and it just looks beautiful. Personally, I don't think it's a waste for anyone to buy, but I'm a little biased with how much money I've sunk into mine.

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RME
Feb 20, 2012



Is Corsair software still dreadful? I like what it’s keyvaords offer hardware wise on the k70, or 100%, mx reds, rgb, good media keys, and a USB pass through, but I’ve heard the software is nightmarish and has conflicts with steam even.
Comparable keyboards seem to give up at least one of these things or have a much higher price point

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Is Corsair software still dreadful? I like what it’s keyvaords offer hardware wise on the k70, or 100%, mx reds, rgb, good media keys, and a USB pass through, but I’ve heard the software is nightmarish and has conflicts with steam even.
Comparable keyboards seem to give up at least one of these things or have a much higher price point

I use iCUE to manage my h100 and it seems fine


In the meantime: What is the difference between the Corsair K65 RGB RAPIDFIRE and the K65 LUX RGB besides MX Speed vs MX Red and about ten bucks?

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RME
Feb 20, 2012



Think I might get a Ducky keyboard instead, i just wish it had some of the nicer media key stuff some other boards seem to have because I actually do end up using them for music control decently often. I’m thinking I might be able to just reclaim some keys like pause and scroll lock, and maybe look into replacing the key caps but the layout is never gonna be quite perfect that way and it feels funny to pay so much for a keyaboard and use a kinda hack-y solution like that

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So I've been kind of looking to get a tenkeyless keyboard because the lack of arrow keys on my 60% have been really irritating for certain tasks. I've been looking at the ducky one 2, code wasd or the durogod keyboard, but I really like that CTRL massdrop keyboard, although mostly for the looks of it. Is there any reason the CTRL keyboard is a bad idea, outside of me paying $70 or so for basically looks and some features that I will probably never use like the hot swapable switches.

If you like 60% size but want arrow keys, you could consider the Vortex Race 3

As a bonus you get your F row back

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If you like 60% size but want arrow keys, you could consider the Vortex Race 3

As a bonus you get your F row back

I recently bought the Race 3 and I am really enjoying it. It's my first tenkeyless keyboard and while I had a little adjustment period where I'd struggle to enter numbers as quickly as I used to be able to, the smaller footprint and better switches make the typing experience much better than it was with my previous keyboard.

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Mar 7, 2008


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I recently bought the Race 3 and I am really enjoying it. It's my first tenkeyless keyboard and while I had a little adjustment period where I'd struggle to enter numbers as quickly as I used to be able to, the smaller footprint and better switches make the typing experience much better than it was with my previous keyboard.

If you give it some time you will eventually get really fast at typing directly on the number row with 2 hands. They just become an extension of the letter area.

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VostokProgram
Feb 20, 2014



Ok folks I think it's time to look into buying another keyboard.... What kind of switches should I try next. So far I've done (all cherry):
- blues: don't like the fake noise, I prefer my keyboards to have a satisfying thunk sound rather than a click
- browns: these are ok, although I think the lightness causes me to misstype?
- clears: my favorite thus far

I have also done a little bit of typing on a coworkers realforce board and I think it's loving amazing but also way too rich for my blood, at least for now.

So what should I try next?

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TheFluff
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Satisfying thunk, huh? 1987-1990 Apple Extended Keyboard (M0115), or some of the other exceedingly rare vintage Alps boards with tactile switches.

Failing that, Matias Tactile Pro or something with those switches.

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VostokProgram
Feb 20, 2014



It turns out one of my coworkers just has a stockpile of kailh box whites he'll let me borrow so I got the GMMK board that lets you change switches without soldering, let's see how this goes

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